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Jusunlee.com Forums > Interests > Cars > Cars or bikes you have driven
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volcom strider
I'm going to be blind

Registered: Apr 2002
Location:
Posts: 562
Status: Offline

Toyota Corolla n Sienna
Honda Civic n Accord
Olds Cutlass

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Old Post 07-20-2002 04:49 AM
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seung ju
Senior Member

Registered: Apr 2002
Location: texas
Posts: 1289
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quote:
Originally posted by Jimwross
geo prism

lol, i drove one of those before too when my boss at the place i used to work had me run errands. they get good gas mileage tho.

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Old Post 07-20-2002 05:05 AM
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Crazydeb8ter
administrator

Registered: Apr 2002
Location: CA
Posts: 5465
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awww damn i want a sportbike :sad:

im lookin at ducati's since i heard they were the shiz

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Last edited by Crazydeb8ter on 07-20-2002 at 06:06 AM

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Old Post 07-20-2002 05:33 AM
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JohnnyLemonhead
Sour

Registered: May 2002
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fuuuuuuuuuck. I wrote a huge reply then my computer froze. What I said:

I agree with Jessica about the gear, but not quite about the helmets. Shoei and Arai are both top-of-the-line for quality, features, comfort, weight and safety (though safety gains by more expensive helmets when all compared helmets are DOT and SNELL approved are marginal). I'd say Arais are slightly better for style since they're shaped cooler on the outside though. The main difference is inside shape. They say you either have a "shoei head" or an "arai head." A shoei head is more round, spherical while an arai head is more... idunno... nogginish, like curved... skull shaped. The best way to find out your head type is to try on both new helmets at a dealer. Some people can fit comfortably in both, but that's rare. Remember a new helmet should fit pretty snug. Not so tight that you have veins popping out and can't blink, but pretty snug, so that your face might get sore after some extended riding. What happens is over the first month or so, the inner lining of your propery-fitted helmet breaks in for your face shape and then you have a helmet which fits YOUR face perfectly and fit and snugness are two of the most important keys to safety. Also, most cheaper brands of helmets (though not "bad" just cheaper) like HJC, KBC, AGV, etc... model their inside shape after either Shoei or Arai, though I don't know which manufacturer does which. The best bet is to buy a helmet in a store and pay extra. Only mail/internet order a helmet if you've tried the exact same model, exact same size (unbroken-in, so basically using a dealer to fit then buying somewhere else, but that's the reason dealers are more expensive, because you can try stuff on!) and it fits correct.

Also, don't buy a used helmet from anyone, even if it hasn't been crashed. If you crash your own helmet, send it to the manufacturer. They will either recerfity it and put a new certification sticker on the helmet, or they will cut it i half and send it back to you. Hehe, it sucks if they cut it in half, but it's for your own safety and you can mount it on your wall, like an animal head :) Probably the main difference between expensive brands and cheap brands SAFETY wise (not comfort/weight or style) is there will be less "Breaking in" of a cheaper helmet. It won't conform to your face over time like a shoei or arai, though some cheaper brands will. As far as helmets go, when you buy a known brand "you get what you pay for." The cheapest helmet I'd endorse is an HJC CL-12 (though the AC-10 is a little more expensive and a lot nicer feature wise). It costs around $160 at the dealer, but is still a safe, comfortable helmet and has a good face shield system. Some helmets have really good/easy/reliable face shield changing systems, like the HJC with the quick-release tabs. Some helmets are good quality but have horrid-quality systems which make you not want to change your shield, ever... like a Bieffe.

And that's all I have to say about helmets... for now.

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Old Post 07-20-2002 09:34 AM
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JohnnyLemonhead
Sour

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Also, without talking about brands, as far as "Gear" goes. If you're just commuting, I'd say wear at least a good helmet, leather jacket (perforated ones will keep you cool on hot days), good gloves, heavy boots (preferably motorcycle boots) and heavy pants (at least jeans). In a perfect world we'd all wear full leathers and gear everywhere we went, but at some point you have to think about practicality. I'd prefer riding pants for commuting, but with what I outlined above, you'd be just fine in any kinds of minor lowsides/laydowns. Highsides (rare during street riding, but still happen sometimes) or "complications" (hitting something while you slide, like a guardrail) are a different matter, but safety gear can only do so much when you slide into a guardrail and that's the risk you take when you ride a motorcycle.

Also, look into "Draggin' Jeans." They're kevlar reinforced denim jeans which look and (are supposed to) feel like normal jeans, but hold up really well in crashes. I haven't used them personally but have heard good things about them and they aren't too expensive either.

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Old Post 07-20-2002 09:37 AM
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sangxjin
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Registered: May 2002
Location: NJ
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o ic. thanks, it cleared up some questions i had. btw is ur bike stock? i mean when i look at ur avatar it doesnt look it.

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Old Post 07-21-2002 05:51 PM
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JohnnyLemonhead
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It's "stock" but was never street legal. When you buy a brand new GP bike, it comes fully race prepped, fully tuned, weight reduced, no lights, unpainted, etc... Because of their engine configuration and chassis setup they could never be street legal or pass emissions. The only way to get more power out of it or mod it would be to spend tens of thousands on "a-kit" parts. So yeah, I just keep that bike in my workshop and bring it out to race it. Don't have the money or time or interest for a streetbike.

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Old Post 07-21-2002 08:58 PM
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sangxjin
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Registered: May 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 1840
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damn you have a GP bike? it must've costed a fortune.

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Old Post 07-21-2002 10:12 PM
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JohnnyLemonhead
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Registered: May 2002
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Heh, well it actually costs less to buy a new 125gp bike with plenty of spares than it would to buy a new 600cc sportbike and supersport prep it. A brand new 125gp bike is about $10,000 plus japan shipping+customs and includes a basic spares kit. A basic spares kit is some engine top-ends, clutches, etc... If you spend $1500-$2000 more you'll have a "complete" spares kit which will prepare you for most any mechanical failure or crash. A brand new 250gp bike is around $19,000 plus shipping+customs and since it's identical to a 125 except has two 125cc cylinders instead of one, you gotta spend twice as much on spares. You can buy new 125 or 250 bikes from Honda (RS125 or RS250) or Yamaha (TZ125 or TZ250). They are made in generations, where no major changes are made within the same generation and if you buy the engine and chassis updates your bike is identical to a new one. Honda's generations for a 125 (idunno for 250s) are 1989-1994, 1995-2000 and 2001+ and Yamahas are 1994-1997 and 1998+. I have a 1999 TZ125 with all the updates, so it's identical to a 2002. That's the nicest thing about a gp bike, you don't have to buy a new one every year. In fact, you could only buy a new one every 5 years or so whenever a new generation comes out and spend less than $500 all the other years to update your bike. In production/superbike racing, the top racers buy a new bike and prep it EVERY year. Though pretty much equal on the track, it's a big rivaly between Yamahas and Hondas for gp bikes. Yamaha has always dominated popularity the 250cc gp bikes, while Honda has with 125s. In fact, new-generation TZ125s are very very rare. I have one of 4-5 in America. Most people think the Honda RS125 is faster because it's so much more popular, but it's actually not. The Yamaha has a more tunable, peaky engine, better suspension, lighter chassis, more advanced carburator, etc... The Honda is more popular because they're ALL fast. The 94-97 Yamaha was far behind the Honda since it was designed to compete with the 89-94 RS125, but then was redesigned for 95. The 98+ Yamahas are super friggin fast though.

As far as 500cc gp goes, the only one you can normally buy is the Honda NSR500V for $100,000 give or take. However, this bike is a twin cylinder, while a true Honda NSR500 has a 4 cylinder engine and any factory 500cc gp bike has millions of dollars in it. The nicest 500cc GP bikes I've seen for sale were the 1999 Aprilia factory bikes, for sale for $178,000 each, but that didn't include the "kit" parts. Actually, factory 125s and 250s are far distant from normal gp bikes also and are all factory "a-kit" parts which are only leased to top teams. Even though a new 125 is ten grand, a factory 125 has $125,000+ in parts, and pretty much only shares the FRAME with the production 125.

Either way though, ALL gp bikes are very very very VERY FAST. Most people don't think 125cc's is that big, I mean their R1 is 8 times bigger at 1000cc's and makes 150hp. Well, a stock 125cc bike makes 45 horsepower. If you spend another 5-10 grand tuner parts (cheaper replica versions of factory kit parts) you can make close to 50 horsepower while the factory 125s make 52+ horsepower for qualifying sessions (where the bike doesn't have to be as reliable). Doing the math, that's over 400 horsepower per liter from a naturally aspirated engine :D. Also, a 125 weighs less than half that of a 600. A stock 125 weighs around 160 pounds dry. Mine weighs 165lbs wet because I've changed a lot of stuff for magnesium and carbon fiber to reduce weight. I know a guy with a factory aprilia 125 bike (he paid $50,000 for it) and that one weighs 137 pounds dry.

There's a saying in racing which is "in order to make a small fortune racing, you must start with a large fortune," and that's true. You won't make money until you ride FOR someone and they pay the bills and give you a salary. I'm probably giving the impression that racing costs an assload to do, but I do it at a pretty high level and ride to win races and championships, because I'm trying to be a pro. Racing mid-pack in slower classes is just as fun, if not funner and costs a fraction as much. It's still expensive though, but it's so fun that it's worth every penny.

Enough info? ;)

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Old Post 07-22-2002 06:11 AM
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volcom strider
I'm going to be blind

Registered: Apr 2002
Location:
Posts: 562
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very informative, even though i'm not gonna drive/ride a crotch-rocket. the thought of the motorcycle exploding 'neath my crotch (even though it won't happen, can't take that chance) just...well, let's just say i appreciate i have a pair.

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Old Post 07-22-2002 08:51 PM
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sangxjin
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Registered: May 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 1840
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damn i never knew even a factory bike would cost close to or near the price of a superbike. so you must have alot of fun with ur gp bike. did you ever top out at a really high speed and btw what are some technical stats, on your bike that you tuned and modified.

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Old Post 07-23-2002 02:26 PM
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J-DraGoNz
Music/Multimedia/Lyricism

Registered: Jul 2002
Location: Orange County, Cali
Posts: 2025
Status: Offline

lets see...cars ive driven...

Benz S 320
Mazda 626
Acura 3.2TL
Camry
Civic
Accord
4 Runner
Integra
a saturn (dont remember what tho...old one)

think das it...cant remember

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Old Post 07-29-2002 07:13 AM
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