The definitive rules for dressing thin for every height, size and shape.

1 Proportion is essentially the way various parts of your body relate spatially to the other parts -- how long your legs are in relation to your torso, how wide your rib cage is in relation to your hips, how low or high your breasts are on your chest, etc. All this makes a big difference in how you look in various styles of clothing. Even a simple deviation in shoulder width can affect the way a garment hangs. Which is why something that looks terrific on your best friend, who wears the same size as you do, can look terrible on you -- and vice versa. It's also why some women look better, or worse, in skirts, tube tops, or capri pants.

2 Long over short or narrow and short over long or full. This means a long top (jacket, cardigan, tunic, whatever) is best with a short skirt or narrow pants. And conversely, a cropped top is better with a longer skirt or fuller pants. Why? In part, because this proportion separates the body into thirds, rather than halves, which is more interesting and pleasing to the eye.

Since designers are always experimenting with new looks, they often bend this rule -- always, mind you, on statuesque models. As a civilian, you want to think twice before breaking it. A snug cropped top and skinny pants (short over narrow) are a risky combo for most women. Ditto for a slouchy jacket over baggy pants or full skirt (long/full over full).

The bottom line: Exceptions to this basic balance rule can sometimes work.

The rule on the other hand, always works. The taller, thinner, and more evenly proportioned you are, the more you can get away with breaking this rule (and, for that matter, most of the others in this book).

• Skim, don't cling. Garments that skim and contour your body give you a nice slim look. Garments that cling to it make you look fatter. I can't stress this one enough. Tight clothing can make even a model look fat.

• Skirts are most slimming when they fall close to your body and are longer than they are wide. This makes for maximum elongation. You're in dangerous territory when a skirt is so short that it looks more square than rectangular. Although A-line skirts can help conceal bulges, they are style risks since they can come across as dull and matronly. Consider trumpet skirts instead. • Ultrawide shoulders, big collars, and wide-legged slacks add unnecessary dimension and thus are potential fat-makers.

• Floor-length coats and winter skirts will make you look shorter. They tend to anchor you to the ground like a fire hydrant. The length is less risky in lightweight, fluid fabrics, but as a rule, ankle length is as long as anyone should ever go -- except with evening gowns.

• The wider the pant leg, the softer and more fluid the fabric should be -- and the longer the length. No wide, stiff palazzos. Narrow pants can be worn shorter. Most slacks are most slenderizing when they are straight and long.

• Pleated pants are slimming only when they are extremely well cut. Pleats must lie flat, and the waistband must be easy fitting. Say no to trousers that are tight in the tummy, stretch tightly across the derriere, are ultrafull, have large or visible front or back pockets, or flirt with other excess detailing.

• Overgathering or excess pleating on any garment is fattening.

• Shorter hair generally makes you look taller. When the neck shows, the figure looks elongated. Anything bulky around the neck (hair included) will make you look shorter.

• A tiny bit of shoulder padding gives a little lift which makes the figure look longer.

If You Are Bottom-Heavy

Your shoulders and rib cage are quite a bit narrower than your hips and thighs -- even at your fighting weight. Any extra weight settles below your waist, in the hips, thighs, derriere, and sometimes on the legs. Your bust is usually average to small, face and neck generally slender.

Sound familiar? If it doesn't describe you, it probably does one of your close friends. It's one of the most common balance discrepancies going. There are basically three rebalance remedies: 1. Add some extra dimension to the top; 2. reduce dimension on the bottom; or 3. redirect attention from the broadness below to the slimness above. Here's how you do it:

• Always wear shoulder pads (but watch the size!). Shoulder pads are the best way to add a little extra dimension up top, so don't worry whether Vogue says they're in or out. They are fabulous equalizers in any season. As they extend and broaden the shoulder, they allow your top to hang in a straighter line from the shoulder to the hip, producing a more balanced, slimming silhouette.

In order for shoulder pads to work their magic, though, they must be the right size and shape. Too broad or thick (think Joan Collins in Dynasty), and you can lose your neck and end up looking like a Notre Dame fullback; too small and thin, and they're ineffectual. So go to the most comprehensive notions store in your area and experiment until you find ones that give you a pleasing natural balance. You'll find that some shapes seem to be better suited to specific types of garments. The pads with rounder, softer edges generally work better with knits and unstructured softer garments. The squarer-edged shapes are a natural with tailored styles and garments with a sharp seam at the shoulder. It's a good idea to have both styles in your closet.

If your tops and blouses already have shoulder pads sewn in, check to make sure they're the right size for you. If not, snip them out and simply wear the garment over your store-bought pads. Also, remember that you can take trickier garments such as coats and jackets to a tailor for a shoulder pad makeover -- they can be enlarged or reduced for a very nominal fee. There might be some life left in those old eighties jackets yet.

On the subject of jackets: Since a lot of them come prepadded in the shoulders, watch out that you don't double pad. If the jacket has shoulder pads, reduce or eliminate the pad in your blouse. To paraphrase Dan Quayle, The neck is a terrible thing to lose.

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Bottom-Heavy Style Tips

• Alert! Check that shoulder pads aren't visible under thin, white, or light-colored garments. It can bring your whole look down a peg. If they do show, think about wearing a slip, a camisole, or even a T-shirt over them. Plain white men's T-shirts (they come in small to X-large) can be cut and shaped to fit under or over just about anything -- sleeves can be trimmed or eliminated, necklines can be scooped out, lengths adjusted. Just keep trimming with scissors until they fit the purpose. No stitching, hemming, or skills needed. It's not terribly chic, but hey, it does the trick!

Before we leave the subject of padding: If you're wide-hipped and very small busted, you could consider a padded bra to help the balance in certain outfits. I'm not talking fifties retro va-va-voom here, just a little more equilibrium. There are some beautiful, wonderfully designed, contoured, and slightly padded seamless bras on the market. They add just a hint of extra natural dimension -- and sometimes that's all it takes for a garment to hang a little better. (Check Playtex's Thank Goodness It Fits line and Victoria's Secret Perfect Silhouette bra, among others.) Or you could even try Curves, those soft silicone inserts that slip into your bra and are supposed to look amazingly natural under clothes. I haven't tried them myself, but they are apparently the no-muss, no-fuss version of dreaded implants. Think of them as explants -- harmless, painless, trouble-free. They even hug well -- so they say.

There are breast roles, and there are non-breast roles. For instance, when I was Stella in A Streetcar Named Desire on Broadway in 1988, I thought they were appropriate.
--Frances McDormand, actress, on wearing fake breasts

Also try:

• Tailored and semitailored tops and jackets. You need the extra shoulder width that set-in sleeves provide. No wimpy, round-shouldered sweater sets, and no dolman or raglan sleeves.

• Layering. Soft vests -- hip length or longer -- worn open, over a blouse or sweater, help pull together the top and bottom without looking boxy.

• Scarves and shawls worn around the shoulders. They add some dimension to the top for balance, as well as direct the eye up to the face and away from the broad bottom.

More Bottom-Heavy Style Tips
page 6 of "Does This Make Me Look Fat? "

• Boat necks, slightly wider lapels, and even a subtle horizontal trim across the top. Just a hint of horizontal on top will help balance.

• Tops that are somewhat loose -- at least not clingy. No tight bodysuits into full trousers -- unless worn with a vest, cardigan, or jacket.

• Waistlines and belts that are loose enough to be totally comfortable. The more you cinch in your waist, the bigger your hips will look. If you do wear belts, keep them on the narrow side.

• Soft, flowing skirts that are cut slim and close to the body and that fall smoothly over hips without clinging. The natural drape forms elongating vertical lines. For a more tailored look, go for a tapered straight skirt or a gored trumpet style. Forget any kind of gathered skirts. They just add more width to the bottom of the figure, which you don't need.

• Well-tailored, well-cut basic trousers with soft, deep pleats that lie flat and fall in slimming vertical lines. The pants should just skim the body. Pant legs should fall straight from the hips and taper slightly at the ankles. Essentially, pleated pants work only if they are flawlessly designed and drape like a dream. If there is any pull at the pleats, they'll make you look hippier. So beware of inexpensive pleated pants that have short, skimpy pleats that pouf out over the stomach. Also pass on slacks that are too wide, have ultra-full triple pleats or large front or back pockets, or flirt with other excess detailing. It's always better to invest in one really good pair of slacks that fit perfectly than in three pairs that don't quite cut the mustard.

• Narrow, flat-front, side-zipper, pocketless pants. These can work, but it depends on the size of your thighs. If they're very big, you're generally better off in skirts or trousers. It also depends on what you pair them with. Flat-front pants could look great with a sweater or jacket, but not with a snug top. In general, they minimize bulk, but if they're the least bit tight, they can, in fact, highlight extra ounces unless they have some Lycra in them, in which case they can hold you in and be quite slimming (the slight stretch also makes them more comfortable). To cover the tummy, try tops that fall straight from the shoulder to the hipbone or below, without binding at the bottom. Straight-legged pants without Lycra need to be roomier through the hips and thighs.

• Side pockets. Depending on the cut and fabric, pants pockets can add an extra quarter inch or so to the hips -- remember, more material equals extra inches. Consider getting side pockets removed and have the seam sewn up (unless you're like me and love the practicality of pockets). It's an easy alteration for even a semi-competent tailor. In the case of the pear-shaped body (not an Agatha Christie mystery), you'll also want to balance the top and bottom with shoulder pads and jacket cuts.

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If You Are Top-Heavy

Your shoulders are wider than your hips. You tend to gain weight in the stomach, waist, bust, and maybe even through the upper back. Your waist is usually undefined, your hips are relatively slim, your derriere flat.

Broad shoulders, in and of themselves, are a fashion plus. They give clothes a nice solid base from which to drape and hang -- just like a good solid wood hanger. But when broad shoulders are combined with a big bosom and/or large rib cage, belly, or back, you can end up looking hefty.

The best rebalance remedy here is to slim down the top as much as possible and to subtly direct attention to your slimmest parts -- either your great legs, narrow hips, or face. Theoretically, you could also achieve balance by adding a little bit more dimension to the bottom part of your body. But what's the point? You'll just end up looking big all over. Two big parts, after all, always equal a big whole -- Fashion Math 101. So with that in mind, try the following ideas:

• First and foremost, remove all shoulder pads. If they're needed to help shape a garment, make sure they are the slimmest ones possible. And while the scissors are out, operate on any jackets or tops with epaulets on them. All epaulets have to go!

• Wear unstructured styles and soft, fluid designs. Light to midweight knits that just skim the body are a natural. Stay away from boxy, structured, blazer-type jackets -- double-breasted jackets are especially deadly.

• Avoid excess detailing on tops. No patch pockets, dreaded epaulets, embroidery, wide collars, ruffles, large closures, etc. Simple tops, and blouses with plackets that hide buttons, are ideal.

• Think vertical above the waist -- V necks, shawl collars, and open necklines. No square necks, boot necks, or halters.

• Keep pants on the narrow side. Even classic trousers should be reasonably narrow-legged -- and make sure the fabric is top quality so that it drapes well.

• Try slim tunics over skinny pants, tights, or narrow skirts. No bulky sweaters.

• The right bra is essential. You need ones that support and minimize.

• No wide belts or short cropped tops.

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Heavy Arms and Bat Wings


Long sleeves are, of course, the number one answer for heavy arms. But the shape of the sleeve makes a big difference -- not only in how well it camouflages but also in how slim you look in general. There are three key details to note: the size of the armhole, the fullness of the sleeve, and the length of the sleeve.

• Basically, a higher armhole makes you look thinner because it allows a nice long vertical silhouette from armpit to hip, which lengthens the torso and elongates the body. That's why we all looked so skinny in those snug seventies jackets. On the other hand, fuller arms need a fuller armhole and sleeve. So look for sleeves that give you just enough ease around the upper arm for comfort, but not an inch more. If sleeves are too full or too short, you'll look bigger all over.

• Make sure sleeves taper at the wrist. If they don't, get them altered. A slim wrist will make the whole arm look slimmer. Casually pushing up sleeves also gives that nice tapering effect.

• Whatever you do, never wear tight sleeves of any kind! Especially beware of those little short cap sleeves that cut into the upper arm. They're lethal on heavy upper arms! In fact, they're not great on anyone but a total twig. If you must go for short sleeves, make sure they fall straight from the shoulder, have a fairly wide opening, and are long enough to totally cover the bat wing -- with nothing peeking out.

• If you want to go totally sleeveless, think about draping a fabulous chiffon scarf or shawl over your shoulders -- a great look in the summer and still cool. Even though you can technically see through chiffon, nobody really looks. But scarf or no, watch the cut of the armhole. An abrupt armhole focuses attention on the upper arm -- which is, needless to say, something you want to avoid.

Big Bellies

Stay away from belts and anything bulky around the waist. Big tops that cover but don't cling to the belly are naturals. Skirts are usually an easier fit than pants. Elasticized pants will work, but please cover up the elastic part.

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nice job alex. this is wat they taught me in Fashion & Textiles class u wanna take my job as fashion mod too?? LOL U WISH!!!!!

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quote:

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Originally posted by UnisMuiMui
nice job alex. this is wat they taught me in Fashion & Textiles class u wanna take my job as fashion mod too?? LOL U WISH!!!!!

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ooo.. thanks for the tips alex.. hehe.

"Shorter hair generally makes you look taller. When the neck shows, the figure looks elongated. Anything bulky around the neck (hair included) will make you look shorter. "

mmm.. maybe its time for a haircut.. haha. but that reminds me.. i heard that if u have long hair.. ur eventually short.. cuz the proteins go all to ur hair. is that true? =T

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wow i skipped everything....i read too much in a day...sorry but i can see u in puff daddy gq style with the suits or da enyce velours with some air force ones and a nice cap =P i love my enyce velour outfit =P wit my uptowns

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quote:

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Originally posted by niggoreanboi
lol i'll take your partners job puahaha kidding

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thanks
haha kidding

very helpful tips. i never knew shoulder pads could be so useful. eck i hate wearing them tho haha

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quote:

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Originally posted by daNNy LuV 1TYM
thanks
haha kidding

very helpful tips. i never knew shoulder pads could be so useful. eck i hate wearing them tho haha

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hahaha so your back darn kidding

yea i hate shoulder pads aswell -_-

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shoulder pads make me look like a football player =D

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